Installing a 686 Kit Porting/Polishing Heads - Yamaha Rhino Forums - Yamaha UTV Forum
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-28-2008, 10:12 PM Thread Starter
 
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Installing a 686 Kit Porting/Polishing Heads

This cannot be too hard. I am about to just dive in and do it. Has anyone done this and would you like to share any information. I want more power but don't have tons of money. I figure this would be the simplest way to get more power without blowing the budget. I guess if I can get it running afterwards it would be a success.

I figure that Wiseco would be the best kit. Any other recommendations?
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-28-2008, 10:47 PM
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I have not done it on a rhino, but have done tons of other motors. It can't be that bad! Make sure you get your timing marks ligned up correctly. Should be pretty straight forward. Let us know how it was, and what kind of power diff. it makes.
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-28-2008, 10:53 PM
 
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Just pay close attention to how the decompressor goes into the cam. Make sure you do a good cam too. I like the stage 2 hotcam. For pistons I use cp or weisco.

A lot of people will tell you 11 to 1 is ok, its a little high for my tastes. I stick to 10.75 to 1 and a cdi with a t degree or less over stock advance.
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-28-2008, 10:57 PM
 
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That should have been 2 degree over stock or less. Procomm, tri fire, moose. If you call someone like bench mark, Weller, racers edge they will set you up with the needed parts.
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-29-2008, 08:28 AM
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maybe big jimm will get in on this...he did his own not too long ago i believe and his runs like a champ!
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-29-2008, 10:34 AM
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When you do it you really need to go into the bottom end and make some up grades. They really need the center drive support and a rod IMO. I would run a CP piston w/ a DLC coated pin. Benchmark has em in stock. A good port job and cam is where all your power is. If i were to do it all over again i would send my parts out to Benchmark performance. I have run up against several 686's and that is the one that impressed me the most.



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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 11-29-2008, 10:44 AM
 
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Just got a report from a friend(Bviernow). He did a 686 Wiesco 10.75 to 1(used out of my race rhino, we just honed it and got new rings and pin), racers edge head, stage 2 cam(again out of my race rhino), mikuni 45, tri fire cdi. It had a woods pipe already. Also he did a fluidyne radiator. He is hitting 65 in the whoops at ocotillo wells. Awsome acceleration too. Machined Sheave, blue spring and 12 gram weights.

We didn't do a rod as we ran out of funds. Would certainly have liked to, but I am a firm believer that if you use good synthetic oul, keep the ignition, fuel and compression correct to not detonate and have the proper jetting the stock rod will last a very long time. Every rod failure I have seen was related to the top end pin seizing either due to detonation or lack of lubrication. I ran the stock rod on my 686 for a long time, overheated it in many races sometimes running 275+ for hours on end in desert races. No problem with the rod, still looks perfect.

That said, when I built my new 727 motor I did replace the rod, weld the crank, do the middle drive gear plate ect.

Last edited by azcourt; 11-29-2008 at 11:07 AM.
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2008, 11:30 AM
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Any special tools needed for installing a 686 kit?
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2008, 11:32 AM
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Maybe a ring compresser.....but other than that I didnt used nothin special



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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-11-2008, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BiggJim View Post
Maybe a ring compresser.....but other than that I didnt used nothin special
pretty easy to slip the cylinder over the rings by hand if you dont have a ring compressor.

the only other tool you need is a torque wrench. everything else is pretty standard.

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