rhino transmission help!!!!! - Yamaha Rhino Forums - Yamaha UTV Forum
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-18-2009, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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rhino transmission help!!!!!

have an 07 660 with a 686 kit that actually puts decent power out, however, i smoked a tranny today and am supper low on funds, my questions are:
1- are there any special 1 off tools required in a rebuild.
2- those of you that have done it, is this even a do it your self option.
3- i have started to run some short course races as well as a couple desrt races, any must have upgrades once i am in there.
4- if it is a do it your self, does anyone have a step by step of how to do it.
5- does anyone have a piece by piece assembly diagram, perhaps out of a service manual or something?
6- how far into the motor do you have to go?

I am pretty lost here guys, any help?

also i have a frined who has a pro craft built rhino and they modified the shift handle for easier reach and easier shifting, is there anything i can do to allow for a easy manula shift from low to high once i complete the build.

like i said i need help on this one, i am not trying to steal any shops work or secxrets just a guy on budget trying to repair / improve his stuff and keep on racing.

Murray
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-19-2009, 08:05 AM
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if you are having to ask that many questions abotut it i would definately have someone help you who knows what they are doing. you have to split the case to replace the gears. you also more than likely broke the middle drive gear support. i just got done fixing mine and i had about $600 in it fixing everything myself. luckily i was able to get the case welded up or i would have had about 600-700 more in it.
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-19-2009, 09:32 AM
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First off, do you know what is broken? Is the the CVT belt or is it actually the gearbox? Unless you were slaming it into forward and reverse while driving i dont see how you could have broken gears before the belt broke.....


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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-19-2009, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
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unfortunatly, the belt had typical wear for how long it was on. i did replace with a new one and still ran into the same issue. once i select a gear it is as if the motor is just fre spining with no resistance.
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-19-2009, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mopar_enthusiast View Post
First off, do you know what is broken? Is the the CVT belt or is it actually the gearbox? Unless you were slaming it into forward and reverse while driving i dont see how you could have broken gears before the belt broke.....

i hate to burst your bubble but there are several people that are tearing out the middle drive gears before the belt. i'm one of them. i tore out both of the middle drive gears, busted the case, and broke the drive gear support.
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-19-2009, 09:00 PM
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you prob broke the middle drive gear. no special tools needed.

you can out the front diff then the front driveshaft. then pull the front input cover off and look inside to see the middle drive gear. It will be snug, there is an o-ring there for the seal just pop it off. take note of the shimms for reassembly.



Benchmark performance can get yami parts at a great deal, if you figure out what you need, he also sells the upgraded MDG support, since you are racing it, you will need this anyway.
call chris at 760-484-0986.

Rog



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http://www.unleashedutv.com/ 602-246-4011
Rigid Industries 480.655.0100
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-19-2009, 10:22 PM
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yep..benchmark is where i got all of mine from. hooked me right up.
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-19-2009, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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i have been trouble shooting as much as possible with the car intact to make sure that my diagnosis was correct.

this is what i have seen.

when the car is at idle in low gear, the sheive is wedged against the clutch basket is not allowing the motor to spool up as the resistance from the shive bound against the cage stalls the motor.

i jacked the rear of the car up did the same thing and broke free from the cage, and the clutch then appeared to function normally in high gear. howver once i let of the gas the sheave comes back out and ninds and stops against the cage.

when i do the same thing in low gear i have nothing, power transfers through the clutch as described above but i have no power going to the rear tires, they spin but with no corelation to the motor rpm, and when the motor is idled at 3/4 throttle you can stop the tires with your hand.

so i am conserned that i now have 2 issues a clutch that is done as well as some damaged gears.

I really appreciate everyones replys / input as i learn my way through this issue.

i am located in portland oregon, can anyone reccomend someone locally for work, i am at the point now that i am probably going to head for a shop for further diagnosis, i feel like continuing to run / fiddle fart around and break . damage more parts.

i have not ruled out HRT and plan on contacting him shortly.

with what has come out of the clutch issue it looksl ike i will need to upgrade this during my rebuild, any reccomendations? i have heard a lot about the commet 4, but also heard that the manufactirer is only producing them when he gets a large amount ordered.

any truth to that? are there any quality used ones availabe that someone knows about?

any other clutches that anyone reccomends?

thanks again everyone.
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-19-2009, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
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oops i missed typed. i get power to the rear tires in high gear, but nothing in low gear.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-20-2009, 01:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slider_buck View Post
i hate to burst your bubble but there are several people that are tearing out the middle drive gears before the belt. i'm one of them. i tore out both of the middle drive gears, busted the case, and broke the drive gear support.
sucks for you.....


Pro-One GlasslHRT 2-seaterlPRP 4-point harnesslPRP High BackslDRD dualslDRD fuel management
Machined sheavelDynateck ECUlXMF +6l2-4" 3-7" HID's
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