So i know this is a clone but I'm pretty sure the wiring is close to the 660 just with fuel injection...

So i was driving mine through the woods when it just died. Was running fine. I tried restarting the utv and the starter would turn the motor over but it wouldnt never crank. I got to looking around and noticed the gauge cluster wasnt working. No power. I also noticed when i turned the key off and back on the fuel pump wouldnt turn on. I checked the main fuse everything is good. I checked all the wires at the battery, good connections including the pigtail ground. I went through every harness and no wires are burnt and no plugs are melted.

What is a CDI box on rhinos is a fuse and relay box. Checked all fuses and everything was good. The relays arent serviceable as theyre soldered to a board. Its my understanding that everything gets power from this box except the starter. If its not hooked up to a fuse in this box then its hooked up to a relay. I'm leaning towards the box being my problem its just hard to believe i would loose so much at once.....

Help Needed

I agree with you that it seems to suggest it is the main feeder wire for everything excluding the starter itself. I know you've probably done this, but start at the battery and recheck all connections.,see if there is a wire that broke out of it's connector on the starter solenoid hot post.

If it still doesn't make sense with your troubleshooting, then you may be correct on the box being the culprit...good luck!

so i dont think its the "CDI Box" anymore. I believe i have a burnt ground somewhere. I went to test power to the fuel pump. I show voltage if i probe to the frame of the utv but show nothing if i probe to the harness so somewhere in the maze of wires im missing my ground.

I know that all the grounds dazy chain back to a small pigtail that goes to the battery. Doesn't anyone know where they all connect at? I dont really want to cut the entire run of black tubing "conduit" to see where its burnt but if i have to then i will. I wasn't sure if theres a central point in the conduit where all the grounds come together or if its speratic through out the entire run...

Thanks,

Its really hard to make suggestions while knowing you have a Rhino clone.... can't really assume everything in the wiring is exactly the same. You said you believe all your grounds are daisy chained together and is a great assumption

Then temporarly connect a ground directly from your battery to the engine....then another ground from battery to a sought out ground in the harness, maybe by the CDI box, fuses, a harness ground to a ground screw up under the dash....any place or wire you KNOW is a ground.

The idea is to use temp ground wires at other known ground locations for a work around / backfeeding to the harness ground for testing purposes.

So i have an update. I have gone through everything. Ive pulled all the conduit off to expose the wires on both the main wiring harness and EFI harness. Everything looks good which it should this is all brandnew wiring bought roughly a year ago.

I did finally get my gauge to come on. basically unplugged everything on the motor and ecu. I know that when i plug my fuel pump in i loose my gauge. I tested the fuel pump by hooking it directly to the battery and if comes on. If i plug the ebrake in it stays on until i pull the ebrake up and then i loose my gauge again. I have probed every connector testing both positive and negative back to the battery. Example if i wanted to test ground then i would hook the positive lead on my meter to the battery and the negative lead to the harness. Everything tested fine. Its like everytime i hook something up that pulls current or uses connection to ground (example ebrake & engine temp warning light) i loose power at the gauge. Could this be ECU, Gauge, wiring harness?

Im at a loss. Im close seeing how i got the gauge to finally work again...