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Rotax swap, R1 swap, etc.

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  Topic Review (Newest First)
01-03-2009 10:26 PM
THUNDERUSONE
Quote:
Originally Posted by qwkrhino View Post
Great Job looking good Thanks for sharing the pics.
Thanks Q!

One more thing, I highly recommend using a carbide cutter to CAREFULLY do your trimming as opposed to stone or any type of abrasive paper or cartridge roll.

To clean the shavings out of the motor, I had the engine tilted toward the drain plug. I used several cans of brake cleaner to repeatedly rinse the inside of the case from each end allowing the shavings and fluid to drain out the drain plug hole. After I had 99% of them out and it was dry, I vaccumed out the last couple. If you do miss a couple of shavings...it is no big deal as the oil goes out of the sump to the filter before it heads to the bearings. Also, the aluminum/pot metal is softer than the bearings in the motor. This is why you should not use a stone or abrasive sanding roll. If you miss any debry that could come off of the stone or paper, you COULD damage a bearing. It would be a great idea to change the oil after 30 minutes of riding to make sure you have no contaminates.

One more thing....when re-installing the bearing retainers, install the front first, put the shaft in, then the back. Clean the mating surfaces thoroughly on the engine case and the retainer plates. Be careful not to damage the aluminum surfaces. You can remove the bulk of the old sealant with a razor blade and then use a brass brush with some solvent to clean the remainder. I used "The Right Stuff" for my new sealant. Be very careful not to use too much. A little bit goes along way. You will notice how the factory did it when you first dissasemble the shaft and you will see that not much is used. If you use too much, it will press out into the engine crankcase and could possibly plug and oil passageway if the excess were to break loose. When you get your retainers in place, apply blue loctite to the bolts and torque them to 7.5 ft/lbs. Dont forget to put your C Clip back on the front output shaft at this time. Now, re-attach the tranny and cvt system.
01-03-2009 08:20 PM
QwkRhino
Quote:
Originally Posted by THUNDERUSONE View Post
I finally got a chance to work on the conversion tonight for a few hours. Here are some pics of my headway. I used a 14MM X 1.5MM X 60MM with a piece of 3/8 steel rod 87MM long. I put the rod inside the primary shaft then put the 14MM bolt in and bumped it with the impact to remove the primary. You will also need the 8mm X 1.25MM X 75MM to put the belt back on the secondary upon reassembly. Once the CVT was off, I could remove the transmission. I used my rolling engine crane to hold the engine up at eye level to grind the case. I used black automotive touch up paint to mark the new shaft and then insert the shaft from the back with the front bearing, retainer, and seal installed on the engine. Where ever it touched, I ground lightly with one of my small porting bits on a 90 degree angle die grinder. I removed a little bit of material at a time. Each time I removed material, I would re-mark the shaft with fresh paint and do it again. I did this multiple times and it worked out perfect. It fits like a glove and I did not go through the oil passages. I used an led headlight on my head to light up the inside of the case while I was cutting. Thanks so much to Bscottking21 and Qwkrhino for steering me in the right direction!
Great Job looking good Thanks for sharing the pics.
01-03-2009 06:40 PM
THUNDERUSONE Thanks! I was going to do it for the entire build. It might make more sense for me to do different threads for different parts of the build...IE Mounts, Wiring...etc. I did this because I could not find any good pics or information on any of the forums that was detailed. Especially since this is the first time I have fooled with a rotax or a rhino conversion. I dont know of anyone around me anywhere that has one that I could look at. Much less do the conversion. I hope it helps others going forward.
01-03-2009 06:24 PM
LBR Nice job on this thread Thunderusone and contributors, well documented with pics and text for us upcoming Rotax swap DIY'ers. Especially flying it in under the hijacker's radars. Would be great to have a mod lock it now before it gets jacked and future DIY'ers could search it out, print, and take to the shop.
01-03-2009 12:14 AM
THUNDERUSONE This is the headlight I used....worked great! Here is the shaft back in and going back together after cleaning out the case.
01-03-2009 12:08 AM
THUNDERUSONE I finally got a chance to work on the conversion tonight for a few hours. Here are some pics of my headway. I used a 14MM X 1.5MM X 60MM with a piece of 3/8 steel rod 87MM long. I put the rod inside the primary shaft then put the 14MM bolt in and bumped it with the impact to remove the primary. You will also need the 8mm X 1.25MM X 75MM to put the belt back on the secondary upon reassembly. Once the CVT was off, I could remove the transmission. I used my rolling engine crane to hold the engine up at eye level to grind the case. I used black automotive touch up paint to mark the new shaft and then insert the shaft from the back with the front bearing, retainer, and seal installed on the engine. Where ever it touched, I ground lightly with one of my small porting bits on a 90 degree angle die grinder. I removed a little bit of material at a time. Each time I removed material, I would re-mark the shaft with fresh paint and do it again. I did this multiple times and it worked out perfect. It fits like a glove and I did not go through the oil passages. I used an led headlight on my head to light up the inside of the case while I was cutting. Thanks so much to Bscottking21 and Qwkrhino for steering me in the right direction!
12-29-2008 10:34 AM
THUNDERUSONE
Quote:
Originally Posted by bscottking21 View Post
hey thunderusone go to homedepot or a bolt place and just buy a 14mm x 1.5 about 5 inches long with about 3 inches of thread and slide a 10mm bolt about 3 to 3 1/2 inches long with the head cut off in before the 14mm bolt and tighten the 14mm down. it should pop right off. and then after your done with the new thrushaft your going to need a 8mm x 1.25 about 2 1/2 to 3" long to screw into the secondary to spread it apart to allow for the belt reinstall.
Headed to a supply house now. Great info!! Thanks!
12-28-2008 03:02 PM
bscottking21 hey thunderusone go to homedepot or a bolt place and just buy a 14mm x 1.5 about 5 inches long with about 3 inches of thread and slide a 10mm bolt about 3 to 3 1/2 inches long with the head cut off in before the 14mm bolt and tighten the 14mm down. it should pop right off. and then after your done with the new thrushaft your going to need a 8mm x 1.25 about 2 1/2 to 3" long to screw into the secondary to spread it apart to allow for the belt reinstall.
12-27-2008 10:25 AM
THUNDERUSONE Thank you Q. Thats what I needed to know. I am at that point. I dont have anything to pull the fixed sheave off with. I will have to order one on monday. I was trying to rig up something to pull it with....but the 14mm bolts I have...have the wrong thread pitch.
12-27-2008 10:14 AM
QwkRhino
Quote:
Originally Posted by THUNDERUSONE View Post
What is the best way to remove the thru shaft? Do you have to remove the transmission?
You have too remove all your clutches, and you might need the special tool tool to remove the back half of the sheave. Then remove the back half of the CVT cover. After that remove the four bolts holding the trans together and separate it from the motor. Then you Can remove the three bolts that hold the oil seal in on each side. Once you have done that the through shaft will slide out.
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