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post #1 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-16-2008, 02:43 AM Thread Starter
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Need Help Wiring Kragen/Checker HID 7"

Can someone please give very simple instructions on how to wire 2 Kragen/Checker 7" HID lights. I need to know all the supplies and how to run the wires thru the aftermarket roll cage. I need to place the lights on the A pillar left and right side of the roll cage.
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post #2 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-16-2008, 05:43 AM
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Well this all depends on if you want to use relays or not. I have the Kragens on my "A" pillars also. I ran each to a seperate dash switch to keep the initial amperage draw at a minumum. After my first light is fully ignited I hit the second switch for light 2. I also opted to go with my own wiring and used a Blue Sea fuse block that I run all my accessories to. Here is what I used.

*MFS pillar mounts and drilled the holes out to 1/2 inch for the light studs to fit through.
*2 switches rated at 30 amps each. Using a 30amp quality switch moreless eliminates the need for a relay as it can handle the load with no problem.
*2 10 amp blade fuses (1 for each light) plugged into the fuse block, or you can go with 2 inline fuse holders. They pull less then this at ignition but with 10 amp fuses, a 30 amp switch, and 14 ga. cabling you are good.
*Because I used switches that have LEDs in them so that light up at night, I needed to ground the switch (it has 3 prongs). If you do not use these type switches then you will only have a 2 prong switch. This type switch simply goes on your hot lead between the fuse block or in-line fuse and the light. If you use an inline fuse, keep it close to the battery.
*Your ground lead will need to go to a good chassis ground or the negative side of the battery (not recommended). People have different opinions here, but in all my wiring experience on amps/lights etc. I always use a chassis ground.
*I also used some bullet connectors at the end of the light leads that connect to the wiring back to the fuse block and chassis ground. This way you can easily remove the light without cutting a butt splice.
*You will need some ring connectors (1 for the battery if you use a fuse block, or 2 if you do not use a fuse block and run your light individually) Also some smaller ones for the fuse block connections if you go this route. If you run both to a single switch... with the wiring that came with the light then I believe it has the large ring connector for the battery included. It also has a single in line fuse you can use instead of a fuse block. If you use the switch that came with the lights you will have 1 extra lead from the switces (-) prong to either your fuse block or a chassis ground to make the switch light up. I could simplify this quite a bit if I knew how you intended to use the included wiring or to do a clean install on 2 switches. I am including a crude drawing that shows the lay out.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg light wiring.jpg (10.1 KB, 61 views)
File Type: jpg Speakers and IPOD1.jpg (94.3 KB, 146 views)
File Type: jpg light2.JPG (61.6 KB, 111 views)

Last edited by mosslager; 07-16-2008 at 05:52 AM.
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post #3 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-16-2008, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrownSkidMarks View Post
Can someone please give very simple instructions on how to wire 2 Kragen/Checker 7" HID lights. I need to know all the supplies and how to run the wires thru the aftermarket roll cage. I need to place the lights on the A pillar left and right side of the roll cage.
PM that guy in Ill. he has mad electrical skills. 4x4 somethin probably save you like $.35 on connectors too

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post #4 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-16-2008, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mosslager View Post
Well this all depends on if you want to use relays or not. I have the Kragens on my "A" pillars also. I ran each to a seperate dash switch to keep the initial amperage draw at a minumum. After my first light is fully ignited I hit the second switch for light 2. I also opted to go with my own wiring and used a Blue Sea fuse block that I run all my accessories to. Here is what I used.

*MFS pillar mounts and drilled the holes out to 1/2 inch for the light studs to fit through.
*2 switches rated at 30 amps each. Using a 30amp quality switch moreless eliminates the need for a relay as it can handle the load with no problem.
*2 10 amp blade fuses (1 for each light) plugged into the fuse block, or you can go with 2 inline fuse holders. They pull less then this at ignition but with 10 amp fuses, a 30 amp switch, and 14 ga. cabling you are good.
*Because I used switches that have LEDs in them so that light up at night, I needed to ground the switch (it has 3 prongs). If you do not use these type switches then you will only have a 2 prong switch. This type switch simply goes on your hot lead between the fuse block or in-line fuse and the light. If you use an inline fuse, keep it close to the battery.
*Your ground lead will need to go to a good chassis ground or the negative side of the battery (not recommended). People have different opinions here, but in all my wiring experience on amps/lights etc. I always use a chassis ground.
*I also used some bullet connectors at the end of the light leads that connect to the wiring back to the fuse block and chassis ground. This way you can easily remove the light without cutting a butt splice.
*You will need some ring connectors (1 for the battery if you use a fuse block, or 2 if you do not use a fuse block and run your light individually) Also some smaller ones for the fuse block connections if you go this route. If you run both to a single switch... with the wiring that came with the light then I believe it has the large ring connector for the battery included. It also has a single in line fuse you can use instead of a fuse block. If you use the switch that came with the lights you will have 1 extra lead from the switces (-) prong to either your fuse block or a chassis ground to make the switch light up. I could simplify this quite a bit if I knew how you intended to use the included wiring or to do a clean install on 2 switches. I am including a crude drawing that shows the lay out.
Damn Moss he said simple. LOL

Mush, where can I get those fancy twist connectors again?? HA HA

Errrrrrrrrrrrrr.

Rog



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post #5 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-16-2008, 03:53 PM
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I'm with you rog. Dawn moss.

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post #6 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-16-2008, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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Moss I'll try to install all the lights this weekend. Stay close to the email just in case I need your help!
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post #7 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-16-2008, 06:21 PM
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There are many ways of wiring up HID's, but my experience has been to use the KISS method with proper, high-quality, installation techniques.

Mosslagers method will work fine, mine is easier to wire, but maybe more time consuming, depending on your soldering skills.

My Checker HID's came with a 16 ga. wiring harness designed to tie both lights off one 16 ga. wire. I wanted to improve on that, so I got some 14 ga., 2-conducter speaker wire at Home Depot. It has a 14 ga. red and black insulated wire inside an outside plastic cover, so it is double-insulated. It will easily fit into a 1/4" hole. If you are really into overkill, it also comes in 12 ga.

So, I connected the right HID to the 14 ga., ran it about 3 feet to meet up with the left HID wire, and tee'd the wires together. That way, there was only one 14 ga wire running inside the cage down to the switch.

I know, I know, you should not run 2 Checker lights off one wire and one switch. But why not? A 14 ga. wire is good for a continuous load of 20 amps, the 2 lights draw about 7 amps, so you have plenty of capacity in a 14 ga.

That being said, here is the kicker!! I can guarantee that this will work only if you solder all the connections. I soldered, taped, and used heat shrink from the lights down to the switch, no butt connectors, no quick disconnects. I left some extra wire in the cage tubing and by the light, so if I do have to remove a light I will cut the wires, and then solder them again. This allows me to have essentially no voltage drop between the light and single switch.

On the switch and the battery I used soldered ring connectors. The fuse block was soldered in.

Agree or disagree, it works. Soldering 12v. wiring is considered the best way of making connections, here is a link to a site documenting that.

butt connectors or solder

If you think this is off the wall, go look at the size of the wires going to your headlights on your Rhino, that sure looks like 18 ga. to me.

Let the debate begin!

If all else fails, follow the instructions.
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post #8 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-16-2008, 06:49 PM
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What is wrong with the wiring & diagram that comes with the kregan HID lights? The diagram shows you the way to hook up two lights. If thats not good, why would they give you the wires!
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post #9 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-16-2008, 07:14 PM
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i run mine of of relays and a 10g wire going to each pair. then I used the supplied "i think 16g" t-ed off to each light.

Cant we all get along? lol
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post #10 of 42 (permalink) Old 07-17-2008, 09:29 PM
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Hey, how come we don't have the "Beating A Dead Horse" smily on the list, because I'm about to do it.

The Checker HID harness is 16 ga at the fuse block with a 20 amp fuse provided.

The way they get away with doing that is the chart info in the link below.

American Wire Gauge table and AWG Electrical Current Load Limits

The calculator at the bottom of the page is cool, you set it to 12 volts, and then put in your wire size and length of run from light to battery, and the amp load. You get surprisingly little voltage drop difference between 14 ga and 10 ga if you have short runs like in a Rhino.

The pic is the Home Depot 2-conducter next to the Checker fuse block connection.
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If all else fails, follow the instructions.
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