rotax conversion,what is needed??? - Yamaha Rhino Forums - Yamaha UTV Forum
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post #1 of 50 (permalink) Old 10-20-2008, 11:42 PM Thread Starter
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rotax conversion,what is needed???

what is needed to do the conversion,besides the engine and guages and harness? Mounts,fuel pump etc.....give us the just of what parts are needed from the cam am and parts that are needed to be purchased and fabrication etc that needs to be completed....

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post #2 of 50 (permalink) Old 10-21-2008, 12:42 AM
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what is needed to do the conversion,besides the engine and guages and harness? Mounts,fuel pump etc.....give us the just of what parts are needed from the cam am and parts that are needed to be purchased and fabrication etc that needs to be completed....
You will need the Computers, coils, exhaust, drive shafts, 4x4 button, transmission, Dalton clutch upgrade, though shaft upgrade, motor mounts and you will have to cut out a section of the Rhino's pan to fit the new rear motor mount and also make your own top motor mount if you use Desert dogs mount. Modified Rhino shifter. I cut mine off and turned it 180 and welded it back on the same spot and it works perfectly, still have lo, hi, N, and revers, just can't use park be cause the Rhino only has 4 positions. Aux tank and buy an aux pump that taps into the can am's fuel pump wiring to pull gas out of the Rhino's tank. Modified the Rhino throttle cable and lots of time and labor.

Last edited by QwkRhino; 10-21-2008 at 12:51 AM.
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post #3 of 50 (permalink) Old 10-21-2008, 12:03 PM
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You will need the Computers, coils, exhaust, drive shafts, 4x4 button, transmission, Dalton clutch upgrade, though shaft upgrade, motor mounts and you will have to cut out a section of the Rhino's pan to fit the new rear motor mount and also make your own top motor mount if you use Desert dogs mount. Modified Rhino shifter. I cut mine off and turned it 180 and welded it back on the same spot and it works perfectly, still have lo, hi, N, and revers, just can't use park be cause the Rhino only has 4 positions. Aux tank and buy an aux pump that taps into the can am's fuel pump wiring to pull gas out of the Rhino's tank. Modified the Rhino throttle cable and lots of time and labor.

a few more questions - is the 4x4 switch needed for regular operation? is the Dalton clutch upgrade necessary? does everyone usually connect the wires for the override switch together and eliminate the switch? did you fab removable passenger seat mounts to access the clutch cover, cut the cover in half or running the machine without any cover at all? LBR
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post #4 of 50 (permalink) Old 10-21-2008, 12:18 PM
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The can am 4x4 switch will only be need to lock the motor in 4 wheel drive. & after that just unplug it and leave in your tool box if you ever had to service it. I'm making a exhaust tube from the front outlet of the clutch cover to vent out the back and I will have to see how that works out. It's a good idea to run the clutch kit. If not you motor might fell bog a the lower rpms. I have not cut the seat base yet but plan too. I still think you might need to pull out the gas tank to remove the cover.

Last edited by QwkRhino; 10-22-2008 at 01:44 AM.
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post #5 of 50 (permalink) Old 10-21-2008, 01:10 PM
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I cut my cover in half and can take it off by removing the passenger seat and 2 bolts.
I recomend the clutch kit as the rhino is much heavier than a quad and needs it to get that extra weight moving.

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post #6 of 50 (permalink) Old 10-21-2008, 01:48 PM
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post #7 of 50 (permalink) Old 10-21-2008, 05:03 PM
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post #8 of 50 (permalink) Old 10-22-2008, 11:19 AM
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Clutch kit it is then. Am thinking of cutting cover in half for after transplant access to clutch area also. Sounds like it still is very tight to pull the full cover off even with "break away" pass. seat bracing because of the fuel tank. From what I have heard, Jay runs his machines with no cover in dry sand and no adverse effects. My application is dry sand mostly. Just a thought.....if the cover was split in half, could one take both halves off for dry sand and belt cooling and clutch adjustments/belt access. Then if one decides to run in the wet stuff, bolt on both halves with a bead of silicone between and go fer it. This is probably the way I'll set mine up unless someone chimes in a negetory vote. LBR
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post #9 of 50 (permalink) Old 10-22-2008, 04:37 PM
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Clutch kit it is then. Am thinking of cutting cover in half for after transplant access to clutch area also. Sounds like it still is very tight to pull the full cover off even with "break away" pass. seat bracing because of the fuel tank. From what I have heard, Jay runs his machines with no cover in dry sand and no adverse effects. My application is dry sand mostly. Just a thought.....if the cover was split in half, could one take both halves off for dry sand and belt cooling and clutch adjustments/belt access. Then if one decides to run in the wet stuff, bolt on both halves with a bead of silicone between and go fer it. This is probably the way I'll set mine up unless someone chimes in a negetory vote. LBR
Sounds good to me, you test it and let us know. If you run without a cover there should be no problems with that set up in dry conditions. The x18 buggy comes stock without a cover over the cvt. The only problem you might have with the Rhino is if the belt snaps in might take out hot coolant line or wiring. That would suck.
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post #10 of 50 (permalink) Old 10-23-2008, 10:48 AM
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That would suck.
Agreed on that.
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