Head removal, rings & cylinder - Yamaha Rhino Forums - Yamaha UTV Forum
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 09-03-2009, 12:23 AM Thread Starter
1/4 Throttle
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Abbotsford, BC Canada
Posts: 4
Head removal, rings & cylinder

I'm trying to sell a 2005 Rhino 660. I've only owned it a short time and I go thru a lot of oil (like 1 Quart every 300 miles). It will occasionally puff some blue when you follow it, but hard to see, and only sometimes (like hammering gas pedal). The dipstick movement doesn't lie, and I'm not leaking it at all, so i assume the consumption is either rings or valve seals (maybe valve guides, but I'm really hoping NOT on the guides). I only have 2000 miles/3500Km on the rhino/engine.

Unlike the guy I bought from, I find it hard to knowingly screw someone and not identify the issues. I'm mechanically inclined and have worked on other small engines, just re & re'ed car tranny on Nissan, etc.. I can do this myself and i can't afford to pay a shop (except for machine work).

I have a Rhino repair manual. There are 30 pages of info on removing cylinder head cover, cylinder head, then finally getting to the cxylinder & piston. Basically, i want to get the jug either honed or re-bored (whatever machine shop tells me), replace rings, and valve seals. I think that will do it all. So how much do i have to remove/do to get to this point?

I assume the overhead cam needs to come out, and I need to keep timing chain in place so it doesn't move. But all the pages on rocker arms, valve removal, etc... I don't want to do all that. Can I remove in sections, with that stuff intact?

Do I need to drain coolant, or can I just disconnect coolant hoses? Can I take the head to the machine shop with valve train assembly together, and have them tell me what I actually need?

I want to be thorough, but I also don't want to do a bunch of stuff I don't have to do. Right now I have the engine at TDC on compression, and I've walked away for the night. I need to get this done ASAP.

I was going to get whatever shop says i need and I was hoping the piston would be fine and no rebore necessary. i was going to buy a set of Tusk gaskets from Rockymountain ATV for $26. I've read mixed reviews on the quality of their head gaskets. Anyone had any expereince with their gaskets?

How hard are valve seals to do, while I've got htis apart?

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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 09-08-2009, 01:42 AM Thread Starter
1/4 Throttle
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Abbotsford, BC Canada
Posts: 4
please...stop... all these replies are too much for me to digest. Well, hopefully i can help someone else who has the same Qs.

I followed the Yammy manual that is like 30 pages on this area. i removed the head cover, which has at least 17 allen screws of varying lengths. I used a piece of cardboard, drew a sketch of the head cover and poked the bolts thru the corresponding holes, so hopefully i get the correct screws in the correct spots. Use 3-bond for the top gasket material.

the rocker arms remain attached, I never touched them. they are on the head cover.

the head came off next. I carefully hung the cam timing chain with a chunk of coat hanger, so it doesn't drop into the case, and also to try and keep CRANK sprocket at TDC. I wrapped the coat hanger to the V-bar area.

I took the entire head into yamaha shop. Clearbrook Yamaha is the best. the mechanic was awesome, helpful, etc... Gave me a few pointers and told me what was going on.

Surprisingly, my piston and rings were pretty good. Since i have it apart, i'm going to put in a new piston & rings. i got the cyclinder honed. The new owner will get more rebuild options down the road this way.

the head was very carbon'ed up. The mechanic figured valve seals. He thought about valve guides, then moved the valve around inside and said they weren't bad. I dunno, I don't think valve guides are that hard to do while everything is apart. I should have got them done at the same time. Anyways, valve seals will be done, and valves lapped, plus new piston and rings. I really hope this stops the oil consumption.

on re-construct, he told me to be very careful with TDC, there are 3 marks on flywheel, and to make sure i have the correct marks lined up on the crank. I guess it's easy to be out 1 tooth. make sure cam is correctly timed & lined up with dots parallel to plane of the head.

On tensioner, do that after everything is in. Wind it up with small screwdriver, hold the tension on the screw with screwdriver, THEN slide it into head hole, and snug the 2 bolts until it's basically fully seated into the head. Now let tension off and tighten bolts.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 09-10-2009, 11:33 PM
Founding Ninja
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Ramona, CA
Posts: 379
It probably needs to be bored, even if you go with a first oversize stock type piston. Most hones do not correct barrel shaped or out-of-round cylinders. Honing a cylinder in this condition is only a short term solution.
The guides are usually fine in these engines, as well as the stem seals. Oil past the rings and burned on the crown of the piston and in the chamber are the most likely scenario.

A tip on all the various length bolts.......
When you drop them into the proper hole, ALL of them will stick out the same amount before you start to thread them in. Even if you shook them up in a can and didn't know where they went, it is very easy. Start dropping them in, if one is high and one is low, swap them around until they all match. This goes for all the bolts on the entire engine. Watch the cylinder bolts, they are two different lengths too, and the same rule above applies to them.

Good luck, sounds like you're getting it figured out.

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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 09-11-2009, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
1/4 Throttle
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Abbotsford, BC Canada
Posts: 4
thanks for the reply. the cylinder was fine according to the machine shop & the Yamaha mechanic. Had it honed for the Wiseco piston. Seals were the most likely culprit.

i use a small piece of cardboard and poke holes in it, then all my bolts go back in the same holes. Your method would work too. the Service manual diagram also shows the various lengths for each hole, but the cardboard is pretty fool proof and quick.

the cam, crank & chain were a major PITA to line up and set up, without moving. the chain came off the crank gear. that was fun to get back on. anyways, it's all rebuilt and back together, and the new owner picked it up last night.
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