Primary clutch sheave 22mm lock nut backing off - Yamaha Rhino Forums - Yamaha UTV Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-18-2010, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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Primary clutch sheave 22mm lock nut backing off

I have had the primary clutch sheave 22 mm lock nut back off the threaded shaft 3 times while riding. Have used an impact socket to 140 psi with lock tite and still backed off. Anyone had this issue? The threads are not reverse threads. Which would make more sense.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-19-2010, 08:25 AM
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I have never had one come loose



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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-19-2010, 10:05 AM
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you have to make sure the washer is up over the threads and onto the splines, when tightening the nut, if not it comes loose.



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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-19-2010, 10:06 AM
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why would they be reverse threads, clutch spins clockwise



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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-19-2010, 10:10 AM
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i think i know the problem
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-19-2010, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamie coomes View Post
I have had the primary clutch sheave 22 mm lock nut back off the threaded shaft 3 times while riding. Have used an impact socket to 140 psi with lock tite and still backed off. Anyone had this issue? The threads are not reverse threads. Which would make more sense.
A new nut or peen the old nut.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-11-2010, 09:31 PM
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primary clutch shaft threads

i let 2 of the rollers turn sideways when i replaced the belt and had to order a new cam and nut and washer.....i was wondering if anyone knows what size die i could use to rethread the shaft in hopes the new nut would thread on so i dont have to replace the shaft..
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-05-2010, 08:47 AM
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did you make sure the belt was out of the way and not pintched in there?

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-04-2018, 12:10 PM
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Ok, hey guys, I have a '09 450 Rhino. I had the nut back off also on my test drive with the rebuilt engine. After reading on your forums, I took apart the primary sheave, the weights were all cattywompous and zero grease. After inspection, I did notice some minor flat spots on the weights and decided to replace them with OEM weights from Partzilla, a new nut and washer (the nut spun off so hard it welded itself to the bearing cover plate of the bearing housing which I got also) as well as a new cam, sliders, spacers and a new belt. I have a couple of questions here:
Does it matter which way the weights go in? One side of the weight has a slight inset and the other side is flush. I haven't seen this mentioned in a forum yet or on videos.
Also, I am so freaking confused on the grease or no grease controversy. I've heard, no grease, a pea sized bit of grease, a teaspoon, a skim coat and a video that the guy used have a tub? I'm inclined to go with the half a tub method, at least I think that will held keep the bearings in the center when I install it.
Next up, was different opinions on the grease. With so many opinions bouncing around with the quantity of grease, I'm hoping I can go with a high temp lithium based wheel bearing grease both on the shaft and the weights?
I'm a believer in OEM parts and following manufacturer specs somewhat but with all the experience y'all seem to have, I'm looking for a positive, "yeah man, do it that way" good answer.
One last quick question, How do I remove the bearing and oil seal in the aluminum bearing housing that the end of the shaft rides in? My instinct is pry out with a screwdriver but don't want to chip up the aluminum.
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