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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-10-2009, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
 
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Big bore cooling issues

Well I am new to this site but need some help. I bought an 04 with a blown motor. So I pulled the motor an went to rebuilding an upgrading, to start I went with a +4 mm stroker crank, a mudblaster cam, 11:1 JE +1mm piston, black rhino cdi, dg full exhaust, eliminated air box and running huge K&N. This thing runs great but it's running hot! Way hot! I have seen these shrouds and fan kits on eBay , and wondering do they work? Should I just fab up a huge radiator ? We do alot of trail riding so air flow is low ... Some help would be nice .... Thanks and great site!


here is what i started with, can you say JUNK!



and here is where it is at, its running and getting there.




my airbrushed dash I did.


Last edited by Xtremetoyzracing; 02-10-2009 at 06:31 PM. Reason: added pics
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-10-2009, 09:30 AM
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what size is the piston? 105 or 102? i think a PWR rad. would help and also i would put the fan on a switch so you can turn off and on as needed.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-10-2009, 09:34 AM
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Yes the fan shrouds work....but you may not have your system burped good. You may try doing that again. If it is I would reccomend going to a radiator that has a pass system. Alba makes one that I run with no problems. I think TCP makes one also. I'd start there



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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-10-2009, 09:35 AM
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what size is the piston? 105 or 102? i think a PWR rad. would help and also i would put the fan on a switch so you can turn off and on as needed.
The PWR is just a little thicker. It doesnt force the fluid pass thru.



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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-10-2009, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
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Yes the fan shrouds work....but you may not have your system burped good. You may try doing that again. If it is I would reccomend going to a radiator that has a pass system. Alba makes one that I run with no problems. I think TCP makes one also. I'd start there
Agree, I run the TCP fan shroud and seems to work good for 50 bucks

note: are you sure the water pump is working correctly??? I have seen one of the tangs break off of and it will not spin very well.


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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-10-2009, 09:44 AM
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also, how hot is hot? 225 or 275? big bores are hard as hell to keep cool. you can also try running engine ice or evans to help it from boiling.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-10-2009, 10:50 AM
 
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I have a 686 that runs no more than 210 deg. I have the stock rad w a fan shroud, 22-24 psi rad cap, water wetter and stock fan wiring. Some guys upgrade radiators, oil coolers, add a fan switch, but so far I have been OK.
Also, as mentioned, be sure you spend the time to remove all air from the system.
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-10-2009, 10:55 AM
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I have a 686 that runs no more than 210 deg. I have the stock rad w a fan shroud, 22-24 psi rad cap, water wetter and stock fan wiring. Some guys upgrade radiators, oil coolers, add a fan switch, but so far I have been OK.
Also, as mentioned, be sure you spend the time to remove all air from the system.
I dont let mine get to 210.....to me...thats hot. I shut her down if I get it up that high



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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-10-2009, 11:11 AM
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I dont let mine get to 210.....to me...thats hot. I shut her down if I get it up that high
I def would slow up to see if it would cool down also, at 210 or up.

I normally run 190 and no more with my 686 and tcp fan shroud even when in the 90's at the dunes

Projekt, you might want to relocate the oil cooler or add one inline like I did, this will take the hot oil air off the stock radiator and you will see the difference.



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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-10-2009, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
 
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more info

Ok, the motor is a 691cc now. I am running engine ice, alsoit is well blead of air. I think you guys got some great ideas I will try. Thanks
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