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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-07-2009, 06:01 AM Thread Starter
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Sheave milling

Does anyone know how much I can take off my 660 2007 sheave and still be safe. I have two extra sheaves my brother in law has a lathe. I was going to take a small amount of the bottom of one of those sheaves and say up about 2 inches to get this open a little further and drop the belt down lower to give a little more bottom end power. I was thinking about .035 on both half's. Anyone try this and what were the results.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-07-2009, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by rake1 View Post
Does anyone know how much I can take off my 660 2007 sheave and still be safe. I have two extra sheaves my brother in law has a lathe. I was going to take a small amount of the bottom of one of those sheaves and say up about 2 inches to get this open a little further and drop the belt down lower to give a little more bottom end power. I was thinking about .035 on both half's. Anyone try this and what were the results.
that is the idea behind the shim/spacer already.



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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-07-2009, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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that is the idea behind the shim/spacer already.
The shim spacer hold open the sheaves from bottom to top which give a little more bottom end but stops the sheaves from squeezing the belt tight on top end, hence the loss of top end speed. By machining the sheaves only on bottom 1/3 you get belt to drop down further giving better bottom end. And won't effect belt squeeze on top end. If anything it may even let the sheave close tighter and give more top end. That is my theroy anyways
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-07-2009, 10:47 AM
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But wont that change the angle of the faces? Causing the sheaves to no be able to hold the belt correctly on the bottom end? (Angle of the face no longer matches the angle of the belt face)?

If you go more than the width of the shim/spacer that people are already using, it will make the belt ride up too far in the secondary, and make contact with the plastic clutch housing. (people had problems with this when sheaves first came out), so I would say that is the max I would take off.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-07-2009, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by rake1 View Post
The shim spacer hold open the sheaves from bottom to top which give a little more bottom end but stops the sheaves from squeezing the belt tight on top end, hence the loss of top end speed. By machining the sheaves only on bottom 1/3 you get belt to drop down further giving better bottom end. And won't effect belt squeeze on top end. If anything it may even let the sheave close tighter and give more top end. That is my theroy anyways
UM, No. it spreads the sheave for low end (very little, but it does) it spaces the cam plate out, so your theory of not squashing is not accurate. the cam plate and Machined sheave allow the belt to ride higher in the primary due to the rollers moving out farther, hence the cam plate moving the primary sheave further.

And Wild E is correct, the taper needs to be the same throughout the faces.

Rog



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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-07-2009, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
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UM, No. it spreads the sheave for low end (very little, but it does) it spaces the cam plate out, so your theory of not squashing is not accurate. the cam plate and Machined sheave allow the belt to ride higher in the primary due to the rollers moving out farther, hence the cam plate moving the primary sheave further.

And Wild E is correct, the taper needs to be the same throughout the faces.

Rog
I agree with all you say but I disagree that taking a small amount of the bottom and yes keeping the taper as close to or the same will give more bottom as the belt will drop in further. But should be the same or better on top then the spacer setup.Why does a rhino have a little more bottom end when the belt get worn. Belt drops down further into the clutch (lower gear) but you lose top end as it can't squeeze the belt as hard up top. Why do you lose grunt on the bottom with a new belt it rides up in primary. Why do you have a little more top end with a new belt? Wider so it is forced out of the sheave further and puts you in a higher gear.Now I'm not arguing it is just my views and knowledge I learned with snowmobile clutches.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-07-2009, 01:54 PM
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I agree with all you say but I disagree that taking a small amount of the bottom and yes keeping the taper as close to or the same will give more bottom as the belt will drop in further. But should be the same or better on top then the spacer setup.Why does a rhino have a little more bottom end when the belt get worn. Belt drops down further into the clutch (lower gear) but you lose top end as it can't squeeze the belt as hard up top. Why do you lose grunt on the bottom with a new belt it rides up in primary. Why do you have a little more top end with a new belt? Wider so it is forced out of the sheave further and puts you in a higher gear.Now I'm not arguing it is just my views and knowledge I learned with snowmobile clutches.
These are not snomobile clutches on the rhino, But good luck! it will only go so far and you will be limited by the Cam plate travel and cover, not the machining in the middle.



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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-04-2009, 07:17 PM
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Check out nyrocatv.com look in tech tips Coop45 mod he takes a sheave and turns it down 2mm at the center and zero at the top of the sheave and then they make a cut on the cam plate and bend it down about 2mm this makes up for lost topend. I have a friend that has done it on his prowler and works he also has done it on his 750 king quad so it can be done. I have not done this mod yet
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-07-2009, 05:00 PM
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Check out nyrocatv.com look in tech tips Coop45 mod he takes a sheave and turns it down 2mm at the center and zero at the top of the sheave and then they make a cut on the cam plate and bend it down about 2mm this makes up for lost topend. I have a friend that has done it on his prowler and works he also has done it on his 750 king quad so it can be done. I have not done this mod yet
Bending the cam plate will push it into the outer cover when at speed even with the standoffs on it.

There are many machined sheaves that have been tested and perform well to go through all of this crap.

try Unleashed UTV
KMS
or UTVcrap

Done deal.



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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-07-2009, 08:00 PM
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sheave [800x600].jpg I will try to post a picture of the sheave
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